Lipped Crankbait Lures for Bass Fishing

Lipped Crankbaits, generally just called a crankbaits, a cousin to the lipless crankbait, are cover contact lures primarily known for its wobble based vibration lure action and as the only treble hooked lure designed to contact hard cover and hard bottom. Lipped crankbaits are also known for their manufactured maximum depths which can range from a few feet up to around 25 feet.

Anatomy: Lipped crankbait lures are treble hook lures with a lip(bill) that causes the lure to dive to its designed depth and to keep it in that strike zone. Lip(bill) made of metal (not common), plastic or circuit board. The lure body (and lip) causes a wobble from side to side lure action. The wobble (vibration) as it is called is either tight or wide resulting from the eye location and lure shape. The closer the eye to the body the tighter the wobble. 

  • Round Body: [Figure 5, 6] Fat body, Rounded or cylindrical body shape have more wobble, also called wider wobble, than the flat sided lipped crankbaits. Some suggest more wobble (round sided-fat) is better in warm water and/or low lure visibility scenarios.
  • Flat Side: [Figure 1,2,3,4] Skinny body, flat or straight sided lipped crankbait results in a more subtle, tighter wobble. Some consider the flat sided are better in cold water or high lure visibility situations as they are more natural with the less wobble. They generally can dive deeper and faster than a round side crankbait

Variants & Other Names: 

  • Square Bill Crankbait: [Figure 1,3] The square bill lip displaces the most water resulting in a harder side-to-side wobble.  Some suggest the square bill is better for targeting wood (and other hard cover) based on less snags with the wider lip causing the lure to better bounce off the cover. Square bill crankbait generally are shallow, commonly from 3 to 6 ft.
  • Round Bill Crankbaits: [Figure 2] The round bill generally has less of a vibration “wobble” also called tighter action and more of a rolling lure action especially on a flat sided lipped crankbait. Round bill does not deflect off cover as well as a square lip.
  • Coffin Bill Crankbaits: [Figure 4] A coffin-bill crankbait, also known as a four-corner-lip crankbait, has the shape of a coffin. It is much like a square-bill crankbait in that it has an unusual deflection when it hits a piece of cover based on which part of the bill contacts first.
  • Circuit Board Bill Crankbaits: [Figure 2, 4] Circuit board material for the lip which are more durable and resilient when coming into contact with cover. Plastic can chip or crack more easily. Circuit board is also considered more buoyant  
  • L-Bill Crankbait: [Figure 7] Bill is the shape of a capital “L” from the side. Shallow lure some suggest works better on grass cover.
  • Rattling or Knocker Crankbait: [Figure 3,4] Many lipped crankbaits have a rattle and some suggest shaking the package to identify as the package may not be clearly marked. Rattle are suggested in low lure visibility scenarios.  
  • Silent Crankbaits: [Figure 1,2] No rattle or internal noise making mechanisms. 
  • Weight Transfer System: [Figure 2] Typically, a ball bearing system that assists in casting and lure action. 
  • Jointed: [Figure x] Provides a more swimming lure action with some similarities to a hard swimbait. 
  • Plug: Sometimes lipped crankbaits are referred to as a plug, or a cranking plug.

Lure Action. Vibrating a full body wobbling. 

Search Bait: Common.

Pros’ Choice: Common. 

Figure 1: Strike King KVD Squarebill 1.5 Crankbait- Silent - 2 1/4 Inch - 3/8oz 3 to 6ft
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Figure 2: SPRO Little John 50 Lipped Crankbait - Computer Chip Bill - Silent - Weight Transfer System - 3 to 5 ft 1/2 oz - 3-5 ft - #5 hook
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Figure 3: Megabass Sonicside Lipped Crankbait - Floating - Silent - 2.6 In- 1/2 oz - 6ft
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When to Fish Lipped Crankbait

Lipped crankbaits are cover contact lures and a bottom contact lures typically selected when:   

  • Targeted Depth: Generally, the lure selected has a depth rating deeper than the depth of the water to help ensure the lure comes into contact with bottom or cover. Some suggest keeping the lure above the bass and thus not hitting the bottom. 
    • Shallow: Common.
    • Deep(Offshore): Common, as there are deep diving crankbaits [Figure 5, 6], that will go over 15 ft, while some suggest switching over to the sinking lipless crankbait at least in high lure visibility situations.
    • Depth Categorization: Manufactures provide maximum depth ratings. As the depth rating is with ideal conditions (light, thin line) it is common to add 1 or 2 ft to the manufacturer’s number when selecting a lure.
      • Line Tie: The eyelet position for the line tie is an indicator of depth, as is the size of the lip(bill)
      • Shallow: [1 ft to 4 ft] [Figure 1, 2] Line tie on the body, commonly squarebill crankbaits also feature best deflection.
      • Medium: [6 ft to 15 ft] [Figure 3] Line tie at the body on the lip.
      • Deep Diving: [16 ft – 25 ft] [Figure 5, 6] Line tie on the large lip.
    • Other Depth Considerations:
      • Line Diameter: Thinner the line the deeper the crankbait will go. The depth rate provided on the lure is generally the maximum depth meaning thinnest line. Thinner line also helps with longer casts which will also keep the lure deeper longer.
      • Line Type: Fluorocarbon sinks and thus can help keep the lure deeper than other line types.
      • Kneel and Reel: Putting the rod tip deep in the water will maximize the depth of the lure albeit may make the hook set a bit more challenging.
      • Casting Distance: Selecting a long rod and light line will increase cast distance if not targeting nearby cover. Longer casts keeps the lure in the strike zone longer.  Conversely, getting closer to the targeted spot and using short casts will keep the lure more shallow.
      • Hook Size/Weight: Adjustments in the depth of the lure can be made by adjusting the size (and weight) of the hook.
  • Fishing Speed: Some suggest the optimal lure speed is the slowest speed you can achieve for the lure to stay on hard bottom or cover. Lipped crankbaits typically need to be fished fast to get to the bottom but a slow-roll retrieve is common to keep the lure on hard bottom or cover. If a straight retrieve the optimum speed is based on lure action should match the desired fishing speed. Some suggest visually testing the lure speed to find optimal lure action.
    • Fast: Common as open water search bait or when targeting cover.
    • Slow: Not commonly considered slow fishing even though the lure is dragged/bounced on the bottom or on cover at a reasonably slow pace. 
  • Lure Visibility is:
    • High Lure Visibility:  Common as they have a natural profile. Some suggest not using the rattle version as it isn’t natural for a baitfish to rattle. Some will go with a flat sided as it has less wobble (vibration) also considered more natural.
    • Low Lure Visibility: Common especially the wide body as they wobble(vibrate) the most and often come with a rattle.
      • Engaging Lateral Line: The wobble (vibration) as it is called is either tight or wide resulting from the line tie location, lip and body shape. The closer the line tie to the body the tighter the wobble. As such, in low lure visibility scenarios the lure with the line tie the furthest from the body will have the most wobble(vibration). Some choose tighter wobble in colder water.
      • Engaging Hearing: Some have a rattle which some suggest is best in low lure visibility scenarios.
        • Bottom Noise: Some suggest the lure being dragged/bounced on the hard bottom, essentially tapping the bottom, creates the noise that attracts bass.
  • Targeting Cover: Some suggest all lures are good near cover where lipped crankbait lures are good when contacting:
    • Grass: Not common except for light grass as the lip will deflect some grass and/or at a high speed and/or with a jerk retrieve to clear the grass. Also, it is common to retrieve the lure about 6 inches over deeper thick submerged grass for example thick grass in the spring that is 2 or 3 feet below the surface.
    • Rock: Common, to deflect off isolated rock, or drag the larger rocks (hard bottom) and often used in rip rap especially casting parallel to the shoreline.
    • Wood: Common but generally the square bill version and typically shallow. Some suggest going quite slow with the rod tip high.
    • Dock: Less Common, but some use shallow crankbait near docks or a sidearm cast under docks. 
    • Off Cover: Common open water search bait as it has controlled depth (i.e. strike zone) but some say that isn’t the lure’s primary design as they say the lure is designed to hit cover or bottom.
  • Soft Bottom vs Hard Bottom:  Common for hard bottom scenarios such as shell beds, clay, gravel, as the lure can be dragged along hard bottom. Not common in soft bottom.
Figure 4: Phil Hunt Ph-Lil Tumber Coffin Bill - Circuit Board 2/5 Inch - 3/8 oz
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Figure 5: Rapala DT16 Series Lipped Crankbait - 16 ft - Floating 2-3/4 inc
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Figure 6: Strike King Crankbaits 10XD Gizzard Shad - up to 25 ft - 2oz
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Specific Lipped Crankbait Lure Selection

Selecting the Lipped Crankbait Lure Type, as a treble hook lure type, there are the following key decisions:

  • Sink Classification: Some manufactures will indicate if the lure is floating. If the do, it is likely:
    • Floating: Stopping the retrieve, for example hitting a piece of wood, the lure will ascend toward the surface which can help avoid snags.
    • Suspended: Common for deeper diving crankbaits. Some suggest in colder water when desired for the lure to stay suspended on the pause or any time there is a pause in the retrieve. Also, when targeting suspended bass.
    • Sinking or Slow Sink: Sometimes suspended lures with add-on weights and/or larger(heavier hooks). 
  • Size: Generally, the size correlates to the depth, with the shallow lures smaller than the deep diving lures albeit the size difference is not as large as other lure types.
    • Small: 2″ to 2 1/2″
    • Common: 2 1/2″ to 3. 1/2″
    • Large: 3 1/2″ to 4 3/8″
  • Lure Weight: Generally, the weight correlates to the depth, with the shallow lures lighter than the deep diving lures.
    • Light: 9/16 oz
    • Common: 1/4 oz or 2-1/4″ 3/8 oz or 3″ 1/2 oz
    • Heavy: 3/4 oz, 1 oz. 1 1/2 oz, 1-7//8 oz, 2oz
Figure 7: 6 Sense Swank Series - Black Magic L Bill - 2 to 5 ft 1/2 oz or 3/4 oz
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  • Lure Color: As lure color selection is mostly tied to the lure visibility download the Acute Lure Color Breakdown™ Infographic.
Download the Acute Lure Color Breakdown™ Infographic
Rigging Decisions

As a treble hook lure type, the common rigging considerations includes:

  • Hook(s): Some suggest the hooks that come with most lures are low quality, at least historically, but some say that has changed. As such, some suggest manufactured lures can be dull and low gauge that will bend easily.
    • Round Bend Treble Hooks: Common replacement, with a #6 or #4 short shank. Some change hooks when they get rusty, broken, bent or too dull to sharpen.
    • Extra Wide Gap EWG Treble Hooks: Not as common, but some believe they are better at keeping fish on as the hook faces the eye.
  • Hook Size: Some recommend increasing the size by one, increasing the rear hook, and in some cases decreasing the size of the front hook, but generally these are the packaged sizes of the hooks.
    • Shallow Diving: [1 ft to 6 ft] Hook size generally #6 or #8
    • Medium Diving: [6 ft to 15 ft] Hook size generally #4 to #6
    • Deep Diving: [1ft 6 to 25 ft] Hook size generally #2 and #3
    • Switching Hooks: Some suggest when changing the size of the hooks double check the lure action.
  • Snap and Split Ring: Some suggest a snap and split ring bill enable more action with the crankbait much like a loop knot does.
  • Smaller Front Hook: Some will replace the front hook with a smaller hook in size or go to a short shank hook if the two hooks sometimes get tangled.
  • Main Line: Common for fluorocarbon partially due to it sinking. Some suggest monofilament for shallow fishing as the line floats.
    • Line Diameter: Line diameter has significantly impact to the depth. If the desired lure is going too deep, increase the test of the line which results in a thicker line and the lure wont go as deep. Braid is thinner and thus the lure will go deeper as compared to fluorocarbon with the same test, but braid has no stretch which some say is critical when using a lure designed to hit bottom and cover.
    • Light: 8 lb test to 10 lb test
    • Common: 10 lb test to 15 lb test
    • Heavy: 15 lb test plus typically if fishing near grass or brush.
  • Leader: If braid for the main line, some suggest at least in high lure visible a  fluorocarbon leader.
  • Rod:
    • Baitcaster Rod: Common with Power = Medium Heavy (Some suggest Medium) and Action(Taper) = Moderate as it allows for maximum lure action, better hook sets and longer casts.
      • Reel: Some consider slower speed 5.1:1 as high speed reels can result in more fatigue but generally it is personal preference. Burn retrieve is easier with a higher speed reel.
    • Spinning Rod: Less common, some suggest for small crankbaits (some call mini-crankbaits)  with Power = Medium (Some suggest Medium Light) and Action(Taper) =  Moderate.
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Lipped Crankbait Presentations

Presentations for lipped crankbaits are commonly considered a horizontal presentation and a tight line presentation with the following considerations:

  • Cast Techniques:
    • Common: 
      • Overhand: Common, either for long distances in open water and or past the target cover or strike zone as the lure needs to reeled to the desired depth.
    • Less Common:
  • Initial Lure Action: Reel the lure down to the manufactured depth with some control of depth based on rod tip position.
  • Retrieve Techniques: 
    • Common:
      • Straight Retrieve: Some believe as the lure depth is defined the swim retrieve is best especially when positioning the boat such that the boat is the same depth as the targeted strike zone.
      • Slow-Roll: Often near constant contact with the bottom similar to drag retrieve.
        • Consistency: Some suggest grazing or ticking the bottom and avoid nose diving or plowing the bottom. This can be done with a slow-roll retrieve with the correct lure and it can be done by introducing small pauses such that the lure raises.
          • Alternate – Drag Retrieve via a Rod Sweep: An alternative that will provide better feel of the bottom and incorporate pauses is to reel to the bottom then use the rod to move the lure closer to the boat then reeling up the slack.
    • Less Common:
      • Straight Retrieve:
        • Burn: Potentially, to trigger a reaction bite, and/or to cover water more quickly.
        • Wake: Shallow lipped crankbait option with a high rod tip and sufficient lure speed. 
  • Secondary Action: Varying the retrieve speed or adding a:
    • Pop: Also, to trigger reaction bites.
  • Identifying Fish On: 
  • Hook Set: Typically, pull/sweep hook set where some suggest it be slow at first to help ensure not pulling the lure out of the bass’ mouth.
  • Repetition at Spots: Less common, potentially to target a specific spot from different angles.
Additional Considerations
  • Add-on Dot or Strip Weight: Less common, but sometimes to change the sink classification for example changing a suspended lipped crankbait to a sinking lipped crankbait. 
  • Seasons: Common in all seasons: spring except generally not used for targeting spawning bass, summer  with the wider body shape resulting in high wobble and sound if it has a rattle to further entice a reaction bite especially in low lure visibility scenarios fall, winter some suggest the flat sided square bill as they tend to be smaller, with a tight wobble which is good in winter, plus can be fish reasonably slow. Some also suggest the lipless crankbait due to their flat sides and low wobble.  
  • Sight Fishing: Not common.
  • Suspended Bass: Common, as control the depth of the retrieve.
  • Follow Up Bait: Not common
  • Targeting Wolf Packs: Less common depending on depth and angle.
  • Straightening Lipped Crankbait: If the line tie gets bent the lure will stray to the left or right and thus needs to be straightened.
  • Long Lining or Strolling: Some suggest casting, then moving the boat with the trolling motor, then retrieving to keep the lure in the strike zone for longer periods of time. Not common, but a consideration when there is a large deeper cover or if structure such as a ledge that is difficult to stay in the strike zone.
  • Parallel to Shore Line: To keep the crankbait in the strike zone consider casting parallel to the shore or position the boat on structure so you can cast to the same depth.
  • Mark Depth on Lure: Use a fine tipped sharpie and write the depth, update when fading, on the belly of the lure under the lip.
  • Line Hits Cover First: Sometimes it is possible to feel the line hitting the cover prior to the lure hitting that cover. When identified some suggest:
    • Prepare to Pause: Be prepared to stop the retrieve once the lure hits the cover so it will float up over the cover plus this provides a naturally looking deflection. Do not pause until the lure hits the cover as it will not achieve the desired deflection.
    • Lift Rod: Lifting the rod will raise the lure prior to hitting the cover decreasing the chances of a snag. Can lift the rod without reeling to further ensure avoid a snag without avoiding the deflection off the cover.
  • Snag Avoidance: Slow-roll retrieve on the bottom will enable a cover to be identified and with the right rod and line there is enough time to pause such that the lure can float a small distance prior to reengaging the slow roll thus eliminating a snag.
  • Near Boat Strikes: Followers of the lure either on the bottom or in the strike zone will sometimes be triggered for a reaction bite as the lure makes its way to the surface.
Figure 8: Berkley Flicker Shad Jointed Lipped Crankbait - 7 to 9 ft
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